I went to NOLA for the first time 2 years ago in January for a conference and absolutely fell in love! It has the charm and character and diversity of my home city of Baltimore but PLUS Jazz, cajun food and a touch more spookiness.
Adrian surprised me with a birthday trip here and we left Thursday morning and landed Thursday afternoon.
Where to Stay - Sonder
Both this time and the last time I came, I stayed with a rental company called Sonder. It’s very similar to Airbnb except sort of like airbnb+ options with thoughtfully styled spaces that are rental only and not someones home they are renting out like what you sometimes get with Airbnb. It’s the perfect mix between the charm of an airbnb with more of the features/clean feeling of a boutique hotel.
The first time, Mia and I stayed in a Sonder that was one of the apartments divided up in an old Synagogue with a gargoyle out front. in fact if you google map search “gargoyle New Orleans” you’ll find the building we stayed in! Last time we stayed in the Lower Garden District, a beautifully quaint, quiet neighborhood area with only a few cafes/shops nearby but a 10 minute walk to Magazine st.
This time we stayed in Marigny and the gallery/warehouse district. In fact in the block of buildings we are attached to there are 3 art. galleries alone and we are surrounded by many more all full of incredibly talented artists just from the looks of the window browsing I did.
If you’re wanting to stay somewhere within the heart of the city and live like a local, I definitely recommend Sonder. All of the apartments I have stayed in have maintained the beautiful historical charm of the building (which is super important to me) while adding thoughtful touches and updates throughout. They each have a kitchenette area equipped with coffee/tea & maker, stove & oven, microwave, dishwasher and ours even has a washer/dryer which will help tremendously since we are here for an entire week and I love nothing more than to travel back with clean clothes (although I usually still end up washing them again because I’m a germaphobe). Keep in mind there is usually no laundry detergent so you’d be wise in picking up one of the tide travel packs or your own mini detergent if you plan to clean some clothes! Other pros: there is a keypad to get into the building and then a lockbox & key to get into the apartment so it feels extra safe and secure
The first stop we made after dropping our stuff off was to the local organic convenience/grocery, Nesbits for some water & general provisions. Immediately upon arriving, get water. June in NOLA is no joke and you’ll need a stocked fridge of water for each time you walk outside. Nesbits is a fabulous little spot that seems to somehow have a curated list of everything. We got snacks including 2 of my new favorites I’ll be stocking up on and taking back home with me as well as some laundry detergent and kombucha a couple days later when my stomach was still off.
En route to get provisions we stopped at an italian place called Sofias for cocktails to go, because when in NOLA, you always get a cocktail to go. Adrian got the sangria which he said was great (and he’s from Spain so i value his judgement on that) and I got a drink called the San Bartolomeo which is basically their version of an Old Fashioned with a beautiful stamped whiskey ice cube.
I have to admit, walking down the street drinking an old fashioned definitely felt wrong, especially because I declined the typical lid & straw and decided to sip mine the “old fashioned” way. But it’s just one of the many things I love about this city!
After we got back to the apartment, we rested for a little bit, showered and then I made a reservation at a place a couple blocks away called Cochon. We planned on venturing out and really diving deep into the food scene later in our trip but I always like to start convenient and close the first day especially because you inadvertently find some amazing spots in being a little more uninhibited with your plans!
At Cochon we ordered the oysters & fried alligator. The fried alligator was great! I was a little put off by the oysters because they were served not on the shell and our uber driver informed us that when it rains a lot, the city floods and when they open the dams it makes the oysters easier to catch but mostly because they die or get sick from the flood water. Thus why places smother them in sauce so you can’t tell they’re bad. I don’t think these were necessarily bad, but it only takes a teensy bit of convincing for the hypochondriac in me to fear the worst.
Adrian ordered the red fish and I got the pork belly. Both were good, however, the knives were basically like from a 1990s cheapo Ikea playset and could not cut through the crispy crackling of the pork belly. I tried, defeated, and traded dishes with Adrian and watched him struggle through the meal with something that wouldn’t even cut it as a prison shiv.
Afterwards we ordered the blueberry buckle with vanilla ice cream. Even though a pastry chef was listed, it was a bit below expectations, even for me and my unsophisticated taste buds. The waiter did however recommend a good bourbon and the service was absolutely impeccable which made up for a slightly lackluster meal.
That night we walked home past the art galleries and peered in the windows to see beautiful vibrant paintings, black and white photographs and mixed media from some of the finest artists in the world. Exhausted, we went back to the apt and slept off our meal and prepared for the next day!
Other Where to Stay Options
Here are a few other favorite honorable mentions! Keep in mind there are tons of hotel options but while I love the sterile reliability of places like the Intercontinental and JW Marriott, I prefer spots that have a little bit more soul of the city or unique digs that make you feel like a local. I also am selecting spots that are mostly walkable or you can access the city via tram but are not located directly in the french quarter where it can be kind of loud and crazy all throughout the night!
Ace Hotel
Just down the street from us towards Canal street and around the corner from Lafayette Park sits The Ace Hotel. A stylishly moody 4 star hotel that is *ahem* doggo friendly and also has a rooftop pool! Rates vary greatly depending upon the time of year so book wisely. The style of this place is hollywood regency meets mid-century vintage. Each room feels like what I imagine how a young Stevie Nicks would decorate a NYC loft. If you can swing it, book the 750 sq ft 2 level Ace Suite that comes equipped with a bar, outdoor terrace, turntable &
Domio
Another stylishly chic, pet friendly option that blurs the line between hotel and airbnb is Domio! Also set in the warehouse district, Domio boasts itself as an “apartment hotel” where you have options like a more traditional hotel studio all the way up to a 4 bedroom suite with a full kitchen. You have 24/7 check in and traditional hotel amenities like a pool, gym etc but you’re essentially renting a hotel room that is built & designed like an apartment! what sets it apart from Airbnb/VRBO/Homeaway is that instead of a broad marketplace anyone can join, Domio is particular in curating their apartments so you know there are beautifully appointed spaces that are well taken care of (and don’t have to feel weird putting your bag in the bathroom cabinet next to someones q-tips & makeup stash). In this sense, it’s very similar to Sonder!
Airbnb+ 2 BR Shotgun House in the Garden District
The garden district is one of the most tranquil, beautiful neighborhood in New Orleans. With gorgeous traditional architecture, sprawling gardens and cute little corner cafes & boutiques, it’s a favorite of mine! There are tons of gigantic mansions but my personal favorites are the quaint little shotgun houses that truly make you feel like a local being immersed in the traditional style of home and surrounded by artwork hand selected by a NOLA native. This one got my attention because after all I am a millenial and those plants are drool worthy!
Sonder - great for multiple guests!
If I’ve sold you on Sonder and you’re coming down with a group, this sonder option also located in the Central Business District is a perfect place for a get-together with friends & family that wants to stay closer than hotel rooms but not too close. With 5 bedrooms, in house washer/dryer and a full kitchen and a lobby, it’s basically like staying at a friends cute, clean city apartment!
Maison De La Luz - french fancy
If you want a slightly more posh aesthetic (think the interior spaces of the Greenbrier) and want to really embrace the french side of NOLA, Maison De La Luz is the spot. The entire hotel reads like an issue of Vogue magazine and magically blends the finer points of southern living with the high end detail of french design and that little touch of funky that New Orleans is known for. The design firm on this project has an impressive portfolio spanning most of California and has a thoughtful, luxurious approach to all their design. If you want an experience slightly more elevated but still distinctly unique, this is the hotel for you.
